believe or not, they are 400@1600… its just my lack of darkroom skills probably – it was waaay easier to scan pushed ones :-P On the other hand, they are merely proofs… I’d spend considerably more time on a final print, dodging&burning.
What grad do you use?
I as well have next to 0 experience in the dark room, but a good deal there of in developing film. When I push “old” emulsions like APX, TriX, HP5 to 1600, they usually tend to look just like a “native” 1600 film (neopan 1600 for ex.), and the prints tend to be far less contrasty than yours.
nie wiem czemu, lecz tutaj najbardziej pasuje mi to ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2fDUb57_xk
all your recent B&Ws look like delta 1. Meaning you’re pushing the heck out of your films. asa 3200 @ 12800? ;-)
believe or not, they are 400@1600… its just my lack of darkroom skills probably – it was waaay easier to scan pushed ones :-P On the other hand, they are merely proofs… I’d spend considerably more time on a final print, dodging&burning.
he ty chyba 90% dnia spędzasz na ulicy:) – gdzie ty to znajdujesz??:) – dobrze jest:)
coś mi sie czcionka na biało wyświetla i mało widzę ?
fajna fota
fajne, magiczne takie…:)
juz poprawione :-)
What grad do you use?
I as well have next to 0 experience in the dark room, but a good deal there of in developing film. When I push “old” emulsions like APX, TriX, HP5 to 1600, they usually tend to look just like a “native” 1600 film (neopan 1600 for ex.), and the prints tend to be far less contrasty than yours.
But I use grad 2.
I use 3,5 to 5, depending on the scene.. maybe I’m underdeveloping…
try using 2 and thoroughly developing the paper(!).
This makes the shadows deep, but does not mess with contrast, nor the midtones.
I dont think you’re underdeveloping – shadows seem to have enough detail.
I am developing paper to completion… on the other hand, I like this look :-P It presents much better on the print itself :-)